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January 17, 2008
The Tennessean Covers Rock Harvesting on Cumberland Trail
On Wednesday January 16, Nashville's daily paper The Tennessean published an article written by Staff Writer Anne Paine about the rock harvesting that is taking place along the Cumberland Trail. This issue was recently the focus of an American Hiking Society Action Alert.
The article is being posted here - with permission of The Tennessean. You can view the article online at the following link. The link also contains video content and background information on this important issue.
Mining takes a bite out of state park
Without mineral rights, Cumberland Trail is powerless to put an end to rock harvesting
By ANNE PAINE
Staff Writer
SODDY-DAISY, Tenn. — A not-so-welcoming sign greets hikers these days in Deep Creek Gorge along the state's Cumberland Trail:
"Warning Rock Harvesting Ahead. Dangerous equipment and unstable terrain. …"
The forest of hemlock and laurel vanishes just past the sign, and the trail moves onto a muddy mountainside of splintered tree parts and broken chunks of stone where ferns and moss once grew.
This is the result of the harvest of decorative rock — Tennessee's latest cash crop — and it's being done on public land. The state hasn't been able to stop it.
This piece of parkland, part of the Justin P. Wilson Cumberland Trail State Park north of Chattanooga, cost about $2.3 million in state, federal and private funds.
The mining threatens this planned ribbon of green, in the works for decades, which would allow long-distance hiking through some of the state's most scenic terrain.
But the state doesn't own the mineral rights to the land.
Rock — largely sandstone in this area — is being scraped from public and private land and trucked to Atlanta, Nashville and elsewhere to feed consumer demand for upscale rock facing for homes, fireplaces and landscaping. Several thousand tons of rock have been removed from the park, the state says.
"It's not just a few people going in with a pickup truck and picking up rocks," said Tony Hook, head of the Cumberland Trail Conference. "They've got dozers and an earth excavator and dump trucks. They are strip mining."
A piece of heavy earth-shoveling equipment sat at rest from ripping out sandstone and other rock along the trail.
A state report outlines the long-term damage possible to rare wildlife, plants, creeks and the view along the trail, but the Florida-based company doing the work disagrees.
"This is a lot more benign than logging is," said Rick Hitchcock, a Tennessee attorney who represents Lahiere-Hill LLC, which owns the mineral rights in this area.
Timbering took place on the land before the state acquired it, he said, adding that the practice is found around the area and includes building logging roads and clear-cutting trees.
Demand for stone grows
The demand for stone of all kinds as a natural-looking, long-lasting building material has grown.
The production of stone sold in slabs or chunks, called"dimension stone," has increased 30 percent in this country from 2002 to 2006, according to the U.S. Geological Survey.
Sandstone and limestone, which can be more than 230 million years old, are among the top sellers, with granite — often used indoors — the No. 1 seller. Much comes from established quarries, not skinning the ground.
While some rock harvesting was taking place on private land near the Cumberland Trail, park officials said they discovered the large-scale operation in the state's Deep Creek Gorge a year ago.
Since then, harvesters have cut ragged roads into the area, shaving off a sloping mountainside so there are drop-offs. A 50- to 100-yard section of the Cumberland Trail was buried under debris at one point.
The trail is the central feature of the linear state park planned to run northeast from Signal Mountain near Chattanooga to Cumberland Gap.
A 35-mile section on what will be a 300-mile trail — now half complete — lies in this 5,000-plus-acre parcel.
About $25.9 million has been spent on the state park, which has 21,979 acres so far. Much of the property was purchased from or donated by timber companies, and it's in what was at one time favored coal-mining territory, where mineral rights often changed hands.
"It's just destroying the trail, and not only the trail, but the whole ecology of that area and the watershed," said Fount Bertram with the Tennessee Trails Association.
He has helped build the trail with thousands of others, including students who come during spring break from schools around the country.
"The really scary thing is the land we've acquired from Bowater, Champion and International Paper — none of that came with mineral rights," Bertram said.
"If they can do that to Deep Creek, they can do it anyplace they want to."
Court won't intervene
The state has gone to court more than once to try to get a judge to stop the harvesting, but the court has declined. The state is appealing.
At the core of the dispute is whether the rock is covered by the mineral rights. The mining company says it is. The state says it isn't.
"The state certainly knew they were buying only the surface rights, and they were only paying for the surface rights," Hitchcock said.
Anyone who buys property can find out in the local courthouse whether they're buying the mineral rights along with the property, he said.
Stone belongs to the person holding the surface rights, said Joe Sanders, chief counsel for the Tennessee Department of Environment and Conservation, which manages the state park system.
"What does the surface owner really own if you go with the conclusion of Chancery Court?" Sanders asked. "You would own the dirt between the rocks, I guess, and the air over the site. You could mine pretty deep and still be finding rocks."
Dean Rivkin, a University of Tennessee environmental law professor, said severing mineral rights from surface rights has created friction over the years, with strip mining for coal the best example.
"The harm is real to the surface owner, and the mineral owners often do not use best practices and don't respect the property rights of the surface owners," he said.
The state eventually responded to strip mining with a law giving the landowner a say in what happens and holding strip miners responsible for damages.
With rock harvesting, Rivkin said, the "bottom line is the surface owner is not going to be protected, and I would hope the courts would take that into account in making a decision."
Posted by Jeffrey Hunter at 04:09 PM | Comments (0)
January 16, 2008
Corridor K and the Benton MacKaye Trail
Click on image above to download the full story (717 KB PDF)
On Monday I spent the day in the Cherokee National Forest with Chattanooga Times Free Press reporter Cliff Hightower. Joining me on a 4.5 mile hike of the Benton MacKaye Trail was the President of the Benton MacKaye Trail Association, Betty Petty, Stop I-3 Coalition Executive Director Holly Demuth, and Benton MacKaye Trail Association Conservation Chair Eric Eades.
This walk was spurred by the recent release of an economic study entitled Corridor K in a Global Economy: A summary of the Economic Development and Transportation Study. The report was released in December by Wilbur Smith and Associates. Local planners have determined that in order to compete in the global economy, we need to build an east-west highway between Chattanooga, Tennessee and Asheville, North Carolina. The consensus among many of the planners is that a 4-lane highway needs to be constructed in the Cherokee National Forest in order to bypass the Ocoee Gorge. I reject the notion that in order to stay productive enough to compete in the global economy, we need to impair the productivity of our public lands at great taxpayer expense. It wasn't all that long ago that former Chattanooga Mayor Bob Corker was extolling the virtues of the abundant natural amenities surrounding Chattanooga, and promoting these natural areas for recreation to transform Chattanooga into the "Boulder, Colorado of the East." It also wasn't all that long ago that Bill McKibben was here in Chattanooga talking about the value of building durable local economies instead of falling for the false promises of economic globalization.
It makes more sense, both economically and ecologically to enhance the existing roadway in the Ocoee Gorge rather than build a new road smack dab through the heart of prime Black Bear habitat and an Important Bird Area (IBA) known as the Southern Blue Ridge IBA.
During our walk we saw evidence of Wild Turkey (scratching in leaf litter), Coyote (scat) and Black Bear (damage to Forest Service signs). It was a chilly but clear day, and the forest was beautiful. Along the way Eric and I dispatched a few small trees that had fallen across the trail, but this wasn't about trail maintenance. This outing was about discussing some of the many impacts a highway built at taxpayer expense would have upon the Cherokee National Forest and the Benton MacKaye Trail. These impacts include water, air, noise and light pollution in the forest. The proliferation of invasive plant species is another major concern as highways serve as vectors for the spread of these exotic, non-native invaders. The impact to wildlife would be significant. In addition to a thriving Black Bear population, the area is home to White Tailed Deer, Bobcat and a variety of other mammals.
Stay tuned for more updates about Corridor K. If you'd like to get involved in the effort to protect the Cherokee National Forest and it's many trails, you can contact Jeffrey Hunter. For more information about American Hiking Society, please visit our website.
Posted by Jeffrey Hunter at 09:30 AM | Comments (0)
January 07, 2008
The Ordinary Adventurer
Truth be told, I'm not particularly fond of reading most hiker journals. You know the type I'm referring to. "I woke up, cooked breakfast, started hiking at 8 AM, saw a bear at 11 AM, my feet hurt, it's cold and raining, I have a blister, I'm running low on Snicker bars, I reached camp at 7 PM, I cooked dinner and fell asleep." <yawn> That gets old pretty fast.
Then there is the rare hiker who has the skill and insight to capture the essence of the hiking experience, and distill that experience into words that makes the reader crave for more. Such is the case with Jan "Liteshoe" Leitschuh.
Jan is well known in long distance hiking circles for her excellent journal from her 2003 Appalachian Trail thru-hike. Her journal remains one of the most popular on Trailjournals.com, and for good reason. She is a gifted and talented writer. Recently, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that Jan had written a new book about a trail that I have been thinking about hiking for a number of years - Vermont's Long Trail.
Let me start by saying that "The Ordinary Adventurer" Hiking Vermont's Long Trail; A Primer for Baby Adventurers and Other Musings on the Nature of Journey, is no ordinary book. It is a gem! What makes this book such a fun read is Jan's ability to capture the subtleties of the hiking experience. As an experienced backpacker, I could totally relate to the mental aspect of Jan's hike. The frustration that can arise from poor weather, a stiff climb, or from a recalcitrant hiking partner (sorry Clyde). The splendor of being alone in the woods, lost in your thoughts, or listening to the ethereal song of the Hermit Thrush. The joy felt when the sun emerges from behind a cloud, or when a stranger offers you a cold beverage or a much needed ride to town. The satisfaction from realizing that you have accomplished a goal, such as climbing Mt. Mansfield, even though that goal seemed insurmountable only hours earlier.
Beyond the mental aspect, Jan's description of the Vermont woods brought me right back to the Green Mountain State; a place that I truly love to hike. The paper birch, the mushrooms and the rushing streams along with the fragrant smell of Balsam Fir. I also thoroughly enjoyed Jan's treatment of the unique fellowship that forms out on the trail. It's all there! Both the outer journey, and the all important inner journey.
When I finished the book last night, I was saddened to put it down. That's what happens when you become engrossed in a good read. Thankfully, like a gift that keeps on giving, this book has lit a fire that only a backpacking trip can extinguish. I am already thinking about an end to end hike of the Long Trail in 2009, and I have "The Ordinary Adventurer" to thank for that.
"The Ordinary Adventurer" is the perfect read for those who have dreamed the dream of thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail. Whether you ever set out to actually hike the whole Appalachian Trail is immaterial. This book will entertain you, educate you, and perhaps best of all, let you know that you can accomplish your goals - one step at a time.
For more information about "The Ordinary Adventurer", or to purchase a copy, please visit the author's website at funfreedom.com. If you'd like to meet the author, Jan will be attending the Southern Ruck at the Nantahala Outdoor Center in Wesser, NC on Saturday January 19, 2008. She'll be reading passages from her book starting at 3:45 PM in Kleinrath Hall.
Posted by Jeffrey Hunter at 12:54 PM | Comments (2)
January 06, 2008
One Trail, Seven Months, One Hundred Hikes!
Our cabin and Sunset Rock high above atop Lookout Mountain.
We plan to hike up to Sunset Rock and back 100 times by the end of July.
As I have mentioned here previously, this summer I plan to hike California's John Muir Trail (JMT) with my daughter Martha. I hiked the trail in 2006, and upon completion, I weighed about 210 pounds. Today I'm tipping the scales at about 240 pound. That is totally and completely unacceptable.
In order to prepare for our JMT hike, my daughter and I have been hiking together several times a week. Last month on a four mile (round trip) hike from our home to Sunset Rock some 1000' vertical feet above our cabin, I asked my daughter what she thought of hiking the trail we were on 100 times before our JMT hike. Not having any idea how she would respond to that idea, I was pleasantly surprised when she embraced the idea!
Today we hiked the trail together again. It was my sixth hike of the trail since we decided to undertake this lofty goal. Hiking the trail with a tall and lean 17 year old is no easy task for me these days. Martha is fit and strong and has a real competitive spirit. We walked uphill at a brisk pace, with me barely a full step behind her. At one point I slowly accelerated my stride, and she kept pace, increasing her speed so she stayed just ahead of me. I can remember the days when I had to take frequent breaks so she could join me on hikes. Now, the boot is on the other foot.
As we reached a point in our hike where two trails intersect, and we found ourselves perhaps 150 feet beneath our objective, I stopped to rest. Martha took off. I reached the summit perhaps 90 seconds after her, and that gave me a good feeling. I'm not that far behind her, and we were both a bit winded and sweaty from our climb.
As a parent, this is an interesting goal for me. Personality wise, Martha and I are very much alike. Around the house we tend to provide entertainment for my wife as our similar personalities clash on any number of subjects. Out on the trail in the woods, we both seem to scale back our intense personalities a bit, perhaps soothed by our contact with raw unfettered nature. Hiking together seems to bring us closer together.
I look forward to providing updates here on our progress towards our shared goal of 100 hikes on the same trail in a seven month period. This quest will span winter, spring and summer, and allow us to watch the changes to the landscape and the weather over that period.
In the coming weeks and months, look for periodic updates on our progress, as well as updates on my quest to lose weight. I'll post some photographs from our hikes, including images of blooming wildflowers.
Happy Trails!
Posted by Jeffrey Hunter at 08:20 PM | Comments (4)
"There is More Good in This World Than Evil"
"There is more good in this world than evil." Those are the words of the parents of missing hiker Meredith Emerson, on the morning after the Georgia Bureau of Investigation announced that Meredith is likely dead after the discovery of some of her personal effects. Last night authorities announced that the "Person of Interest" Gary Michael Hilton was being charged with Kidnapping in her disappearance. You can read more about this in the Atlanta Journal Constitution.
This will be my last blog entry about this sad case. My thoughts and prayers go out to Meredith's friends and family in this time of sorrow. The hiking community here in the southeast, and indeed, around the world has been saddened by this senseless act of brutality.
I will of course continue to hike, and I hope that all of you will too. I take solace in the wisdom of Meredith's parents words. In fact, I plan to take a hike today with my daughter Martha and savor the peace and serenity that the woods have to offer. I have plans to backpack 90 miles on the Florida Trail in just a few weeks, and further plans to backpack California's John Muir Trail this summer with my daughter. Those plans, of course, remain unchanged. The woods are my sanctuary from the craziness of this world, and will remain so.
As a reminder, I'll repost my suggestions for keeping safe in the woods and on the trails here;
- Always carry a map and compass with you, and know how to use them.
- Whenever possible, hike with a friend. There is safety in numbers. Most of my longest lasting friendships were initially forged on hiking trails.
- If you are new to an area or don't have friends or family who are interested in joining you on a hike, don't let that discourage you. Consider joining a local hiking club. American Hiking Society has more than 250 affiliate members. You can search our Alliance database for a hiking organization in your area.
- Let your friends and family know where you are going, and when you are expected to return. This is very important. It could make all the difference in a search and rescue operation should you become lost or incapacitated on the trail.
- Carry the 10 essentials with you in your backpack (PDF 109 KB).
- Follow your instincts. If something doesn't seem right, it might not be. If you find yourself with a gut feeling that things aren't quite right, be attentive. Listen to your instincts. Report any suspicious activity to the appropriate authorities.
- Look out for your fellow hikers. That could take many forms, including taking First Aid and CPR training so that you can be prepared to assist in the event of an emergency. I plan to renew my expired certification soon.
- Stay on the trail! Do not wander off into areas that you are unfamiliar with. If you change your hiking plans, be sure to notify your friends and family of the change in your itinerary.
- Pass along this message by teaching your children these tips on how to stay safe.
Posted by Jeffrey Hunter at 08:54 AM | Comments (2)
January 05, 2008
Search Continues for Missing Georgia Hiker
Meredith Emerson was last seen hiking with her dog on
Blood Mountain in Georgia on New Year's Day.
Until now, I have purposely refrained from commenting on the story involving the the disappearance of Meredith Emerson. Meredith was last seen on New Years Day after going for a day hike on the Appalachian Trail near Blood Mountain. Having four daughters, and one about Meredith's age, my heart aches for her friends and family. When I learned about the search effort on Thursday, my inclination was to join in. I have led a number of hikes on the Appalachian and Freeman Trails around Blood Mountain, and know the area fairly well. I have parked in the lot where Meredith's car was found any number of times.
On Thursday night I had packed a bag and was ready to head to Blue Ridge, GA to stay at the home of a friend, George Owen. My plan was to join in the search on Friday morning. Before leaving home I called George to let him know I was coming. He was at home having just returned from Vogel State Park where the search for Meredith is being coordinated.
George informed me that he had spoken to one of the search coordinators while at the park, and that they were bringing in teams of dogs on Thursday night to search the area. It appeared that on Friday, only trained law enforcement officers would be permitted to join in the search. With that news, I decided to stay home, and stay out of the way. Yesterday, it was confirmed that volunteers were not being allowed to join in the search. Only members of official search and rescue teams.
Now it's Saturday. Last night a person of interest, or POI (as law enforcement refers to him) was located. This individual, Gary Michael Hilton, is currently in custody by the Georgia Bureau of Investigation, and is being questioned in the disappearance of Meredith. He was found with his white van at a gas station in DeKalb County, Georgia. The Atlanta Journal Constitution is showing a photo of the van parked beside an outdoor vacuum cleaner. Mr. Hilton was seen on the trail with Meredith on New Years Day, and Meredith's dog Ella was apparently playing with Hilton's dog Dandy.
In a bizarre twist to the story, Meredith's dog Ella was found Friday night when she walked into a Kroger supermarket in Cumming, Georgia. That is a good distance from Blood Mountain. If investigators know how she got there, they are not saying.
As I type this, Meredith's whereabouts are still unknown. We here at American Hiking Society hope that she will soon be found safe and reunited with her friends and family. This story raises some serious issues for the hiking community. The hiking community, and it is indeed a community, is close knit. We come in all shapes, sizes, colors, religions and political persuasions, but our love of the outdoors unites us. The long distance hiking community, of which I am a member, is particularly close knit. Backpackers on the Appalachian Trail (in particular) really look out for one another. What does this incident teach us?
I hike alone frequently. Despite the disappearance of Meredith, hiking remains a healthy and relatively safe activity. Of course, there is always risk that something could happen to us when we go outside. We could turn an ankle, or fall on an icy trail, or get lost. We could also potentially run into an unsavory character. Let's face it. While the chances are slim, they are out there in our communities.
It would be very easy to watch CNN or the Today Show and decide that staying home on the couch is a better and safer option than going out and seeking the mountaintop. I believe that the 24 hour news cycle tends to frighten people. The facts remain however. Each year hundreds of thousands of people die of disease and illness related to inactivity and poor diet. While each year some high profile incidents occur on hiking trails, whether it is an animal attack, or an injured hiker, or an assault or murder on a trail, when you consider the sheer number of individuals who participate in hiking annually (tens of millions!), hiking remains a very safe activity.
That is not to say that we shouldn't take precautions when we go out into the woods. We always should. With that in mind, here is a list of common sense suggestions for keeping yourself safe in the woods;
- Always carry a map and compass with you, and know how to use them.
- Whenever possible, hike with a friend. There is safety in numbers. Most of my longest lasting friendships were initially forged on hiking trails.
- If you are new to an area or don't have friends or family who are interested in joining you on a hike, don't let that discourage you. Consider joining a local hiking club. American Hiking Society has more than 250 affiliate members. You can search our Alliance database for a hiking organization in your area.
- Let your friends and family know where you are going, and when you are expected to return. This is very important. It could make all the difference in a search and rescue operation should you become lost or incapacitated on the trail.
- Carry the 10 essentials with you in your backpack (PDF 109 KB).
- Follow your instincts. If something doesn't seem right, it might not be. If you find yourself with a gut feeling that things aren't quite right, be attentive. Listen to your instincts. Report any suspicious activity to the appropriate authorities.
- Look out for your fellow hikers. That could take many forms, including taking First Aid and CPR training so that you can be prepared to assist in the event of an emergency. I plan to renew my expired certification soon.
- Stay on the trail! Do not wander off into areas that you are unfamiliar with. If you change your hiking plans, be sure to notify your friends and family of the change in your itinerary.
- Pass along this message by teaching your children these tips on how to stay safe.
Now it is time to turn our thoughts and prayers to Meredith Emerson and her family. After all, she is one of us.
Posted by Jeffrey Hunter at 09:22 AM | Comments (1)
January 03, 2008
The Future for Wolves?
Grey Wolf - Photo Courtesy of USF&WS
I've always wanted to hear the call of wolves while hiking. On New Years Eve as we hiked back down from Sunset Rock to our cabin at Reflection Riding Arboretum & Botanical Gardens, we heard wolves! The captive Red Wolves at the Chattanooga Nature Center were howling up a storm!
Somehow the call of captive wolves is not quite the same as hearing their wild brethren. Someday I'll have to travel to Minnesota, Montana, Idaho, Wyoming or Alaska to hear Grey Wolves in their native habitat.
Yesterday the NY Times did a piece on the US Fish & Wildlife Service's plan to delist the Grey Wolf from the Endangered Species Act. The article entitled "A Divide as Wolves Rebound in a Changing West" is well worth reading. Wolves have restored balance to Yellowstone National Park, but they are not loved by everyone. Least of all, coyotes!
What are your thoughts about this issue? Do you share my desire to hear and perhaps see this elusive keystone predator in the wild? You can share your thoughts in the comment box below.
Posted by Jeffrey Hunter at 05:44 PM | Comments (0)
Identify That Southern Appalachian Wildflower - Final Update!
Photo take December 14, 2007 in Jocassee Gorges by John Ray
Can you identify this species of wildflower found blooming in Upstate South Carolina late last week? Please submit your guesses in the comment box below. I'll identify the species in a few days.
Good luck!
UPDATE: Still wondering what this flower is? Well, so am I! I looked through my field guides, and couldn't definitively identify this flower. So I am posting a higher resolution photo of the flower. I hope to have this positively identified soon!
1/3/2008 - Final Update: It appears that this flower is a Bloodroot. According to Heyward Douglass, former President of the Foothills Trail Conference, and wildflower enthusiast, the Bloodroot tis the first wildflower to bloom in upstate SC. Since the weather had been warm in December, it looks like this one popped up to look around. While the leaf associated with the flower doesn't look like Bloodroot, some have suggested that the flower is the first to appear, and the leaves in the photo are associated with another plant!
Thanks to all who ventured a guess!
Posted by Jeffrey Hunter at 05:15 PM | Comments (3)
A New Year! A New Name!
Jeffrey Hunter at one of his favorite vistas - McAfee Knob in SW Virginia
The weeks leading up to and after the New Year is a fun time for many folks. It's a time for celebration, college football, resolutions, renewal, sparkling beverages, friends and family, and change!
With that last item in mind - change - the time has come for a change here on this site. This blog needs a real name. Not some lame name like "American Hiking Society's Southeast Trail Program." I mean, what kind of name is that for a blog?
As I was hiking up Lookout Mountain yesterday morning on the Gum Spring Trail, I was thinking about possible names for the blog. That train of thought helped take the focus off the fact that I was freezing my tail off in 21 degree weather! And then it hit me! A tree branch square in the forehead! Ouch! It always helps to pay attention on the trail.
Moments later it came to me. As my destination - Sunset Rock - came into view, the new name for the blog just popped into my head. The Vista.
Why The Vista you ask? Easy! Vistas tell you where you've been and where you're going. They offer a view that can often change your perspective. Vistas also offer opportunities for photographs - like some that you'll find here. You also have to work to reach a vista. That means hiking. Any hike worth it's salt will offer a reward commensurate with the effort required to achieve it! That reward is often a vista. Vistas are also dynamic. A view one day will look totally different the next. That's part of the magic of hiking and immersing yourself in the great outdoors.
So there you have it! I always welcome suggestions for content, including photographs. Please send along your comments, suggestions and photos to me. And oh yeah. Have a Happy New Year! Get out there and hike! Be safe! And have fun!
Posted by Jeffrey Hunter at 10:40 AM | Comments (1)